We come to your car.

Grinding, squealing, a pedal that sinks, or a steering wheel that shudders when you brake — all of it gets looked at on the spot. We carry pads and rotors for the common Honda, Toyota, Hyundai, Ford, Nissan and Mazda fitments, and we can order anything else in for a next-day return visit.

• Typical time 60–90 minutes for a front axle
• Includes Pad and rotor replacement, caliper inspection, brake fluid level check, road-test
• Good to know If a caliper is seized we'll show you the old part before we quote the replacement

Clicking, cranking slowly, or completely dead in a cold parking garage. We test the battery under load, check the alternator's charging output and look for a parasitic drain before we sell you anything — because a new battery won't fix a bad alternator, and we'd rather tell you that in your driveway than have you find out next week.

• Typical time 20–40 minutes
• Includes Load test, charging system check, terminal cleaning, replacement battery if needed
• Good to know Winter cold snaps are our busiest week — call early in the day if you can

A light on the dash is a starting point, not an answer. We pull the stored and pending codes, read live sensor data, and then actually test the circuit the code points at — so you get "your bank 1 oxygen sensor is reading lean because of a vacuum leak at the intake boot," not just a code number and a shrug.

• Typical time 30–60 minutes
• Includes Full OBD-II scan, live data, visual inspection of the affected system, written explanation of what we found
• Good to know If you've already had it scanned somewhere else, bring the codes — it saves us time and you money

Two of the most common "it just died" failures, and both are driveway jobs on most makes. We test the starter draw and the alternator's output under load, confirm which one has actually failed, and swap it with a warrantied remanufactured or new unit. Core charge handled — we take the old part away.

• Typical time 1.5–3 hours depending on access
• Includes Testing, replacement unit, belt inspection, charging system re-check
• Good to know Some transverse V6 layouts need more time — we'll tell you before we start

Full synthetic, conventional or high-mileage, with the filter and a fresh crush washer, plus a top-up of washer fluid and a look at your belts, hoses and fluid levels while we're under there. We take the used oil with us and dispose of it properly — you don't end up with a jug in your garage.

• Typical time 30–45 minutes
• Includes Oil, filter, drain plug washer, 20-point visual check, fluid top-ups
• Good to know Book it as a standing visit every 8,000 km and we'll keep the record for you

Clunks over the streetcar tracks, a wander at highway speed, uneven tire wear, or a steering wheel that shimmies. We get the car up safely, shake down the ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links and struts, and tell you which parts are actually worn versus which ones a shop might upsell you on.

• Typical time 45 minutes to inspect; 2–4 hours for struts
• Includes Full front and rear inspection, written list of what's worn and what's fine
• Good to know We'll always show you the play in the part before quoting the job

Parking lot, plaza, side street, or the shoulder — if it's a safe place to work, we'll come to it. Flat tires, dead batteries, overheating, a car that won't start after work, a belt that let go on the way to the airport. If the job genuinely needs a hoist, we'll say so honestly and help you get it towed rather than charge you for a call-out that can't finish the job.

• Typical time On site usually within 60–90 minutes in our core area
• Includes Diagnosis on scene, whatever repair the van can complete, honest advice if it can't
• Good to know Tell us the nearest intersection and what the car is doing — it helps us load the right parts